Czeching In, Czeching Out

Listening to your instincts while traveling does not just mean paying strict attention to your own gut feelings or hunches. It also means paying heed to every conversation you have along the way, giving credence to any advice that infiltrates your world, and knowing how to decipher what will work best for you versus what is simply another's (sometimes strong) personal opinion. My stop in Prague serves as Exhibit A of what can happen when you stay flexible and let your own internal strainer do the sifting. Once my filtering process was complete, what remained turn out to be a thoroughly enjoyable three days in the Czech Republic.

Now, I must be honest here. The idea of going to Prague never even crossed my mind during the initial planning stages of this trip. But over time, everyone kept urging me to czech it out. I heard it all, from how cheap Prague is compared to the rest of Europe, to how incredibly beautiful and historic it is, and back again to how inexpensive it was to stay there. After a bit of prodding from several sources, I had to admit that Prague sounded right to me. I didn't have a clue what I might find there, but this Czech city eventually made its way onto my evolving itinerary.

My first moments on the streets of Prague are delightful ones. Why? Well, first and foremost it is warm. And sunny. I make a dash for the nearest cafe, where I nurse a double espresso while changing from sneakers to flip-flops. Nearly three weeks into this journey, my feet are finally able to be exposed to a climate that does not make my little piggies want to curl up under a warm sock. This is no small victory for me as I wander mapless and unafraid around the city at high noon. I eventually find my way across town to the hostel, which is aptly titled The Czech Inn. I do just that, and after a hot shower I am instantly congratulating myself on the last-minute decision to book here. The building is modern, open and airy. The showers are lovely by any standard and most vitally, very clean (this is a huge wild-card when hosteling). The staff is exceptionally friendly and efficient. The crowd lounging around the common area is wildly diverse, and I exchange smiles with many of the travelers lingering there. I realize the scope of the bargain I scored here--$12 per night, people--and without even seeing my room, I opt to extend my stay by one night. My initial impressions of Prague have been totally positive, and it just feels like the right thing to do. Besides, I am just now beginning to trust my intuition on how long to stay in places before it is time to get moving again. I close my eyes and czech in. Two days doesn't seem enough here. But three? Perfect. Yes, three indeed turns out to be the magic number. And during those three days, with little previous knowledge of the city, everything about Prague turns out to be a happy little surprise.

Let's talk logistics first. And the first bit of good news is, we can discuss them in English in Prague because even though all the signs and restaurant menus are in Czech, every word uttered from my American mouth is met with various forms of English in return, and all of them help me get my point across with ease. Truth be told, Prague is the first place I've been during these initial few weeks of traveling where I am unafraid of being a foreigner in a strange land who is unable to speak the native tongue. It is actually quite fun to figure things out on my own, without complete understanding of what's in front of me. I start to think it's a control thing, and that I am finally loosening my vice grip on the familiar and truly embracing the unknown for the very first time. Yes, I realize this is a requirement on a long trip such as this one, but believe me, it's alot easier said than done. Somehow in Prague I feel relaxed. No idea where you are going? No problem. Just keep walking. No clue how to order that delectable pastry beckoning to me from behind its glass enclosure? No biggie. I realize I can at least point at it, or attempt to pronounce it, and no matter what I do the person behind the counter will meet me halfway. Plus, it never hurts to smile. In Starbucks here, I have a chat with the sweet, tall Czech girl taking my order. I explain that I worked for the company for a long time and had recently quit. I win her over without even trying, and lo and behold, she gives me her employee discount. As she put it, "You are smiling, you are on holiday and besides, I like the people with the blue passports". So much for never telling anyone that you are from the United States, which is turning out to be quite possibly the worst advice anyone gave me before I took off from Hawaii. My advice? Be yourself, and if you aren't a schmuck you will be just fine in most places no matter where you hail from.

Indeed, Prague turns out to be a pivotal point in my journey. I feel my fears slowly abating. I am happier, stronger, and certainly healthier than at any other point in the trip thus far. Time and again I venture out confidently on my own to see what Prague has to offer. I never once get lost, even sans map. Maybe it is the abundant Czech sunshine that has reactivated my internal navigation system. I don't know, and I suppose it doesn't matter. What's important and a bit surprising is that I am very comfortable in my surroundings here, and very eager to take it all in.

So, what to make of this Prague, anyway? Walking around is very pleasurable, and each new street invites me to reach for my Canon and snap a masterpiece of all the architecturally fascinating structures hugging every city block. The buildings here are a marvel. There are many times when I feel I am in a medieval fantasy village, which turns out to be a tad prophetic when a guided walking tour leads us to the castle that inspired the Disney logo. Against the bright blue skies, I envision fireworks blasting off in the background of its giant spires while Mickey and Minnie dance the evening away in the courtyard below. There is something fantastical about everything in Prague, at least to my eyes. It is a bright and vivid city, with orange terracotta shingles peppering any view from above with their cozy warmth. Look downward in any direction and you will see them, along with a monstrous tower or two which are likely to be cathedrals of some kind given the incredible number of churches in this city. Strangely, we are told by our tour leader J.P. that the Czech Republic is one of the least religious places in all of the world. I take note of that as I pass one controversial art installation after another. Many show people and babies with no eyes, harkening back to the era of Communism which blanketed this region until the late 1980s. Another features two men urinating at each other, and though I cannot recall exactly who these metallic gentlemen are supposed to represent, it is clearly a political pissing contest of some kind, presented with trademark Czech humor and irony. Such tributes are everywhere in Prague, conveying a playful sense of artistic freedom so obviously relished by the people in this city.

What else? Well, it is cheap here, relatively speaking of course. The currency is not the Euro but the Czech Crown, and roughly 19 of these equals $1 during my visit. I manage to eat well for very little, nearly every meal (and snack) including some delicious pastry or another. I cannot get enough of the bread here, or anywhere in Europe for that matter. Beer is dirt cheap, as in less than $2 per pint cheap, and boy do the Czechs ever love their beer (J.P. makes mention that Czech Republic is #1 per capita. The US? #13). Admittedly I'm not the biggest beer drinker, but even I cannot say no to such a bargain.

On my last day in Prague, I decide to wander alone for the afternoon. Though I met many wonderful people from around the world at the hostel and during the previous day's walking tour, it suddenly feels right to be by myself, trotting around just me and my ipod. I find myself at the river walk, another gorgeous day unfolding all around me. The sun is blazing down from above and I am singing along with all of my favorite tunes. I can sense my own glow again. What a relief.

While supremely satisfied with my decision to visit the Czech Republic, I am ready to keep on moving. If nothing else, three days in Prague have taught me to trust my instincts again, my short stay here doing wonders to restore my nomadic soul. On the train to Vienna, I feel relaxed and completely free. I can't help but notice how czeching in or out of places is getting easier all the time. What's more, a quick czech of my pulse reveals I am a little nostalgic for where I have just been but more than a little excited for what's still to come, my surprise visit to Prague an eye-opening reality czech revealing a traveling man only beginning to confidently embrace his inner wanderer.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Comments

Sheila Luecht said…
I had a lovely experience in Prague in 1976 as a student abroad. I have written about it, thought about it and remembered it as no other. I enjoyed this because in it's way, this piece brought back much of the feeling I experienced back then, even while it was still under the suppression of communist rule. Great piece.
Quirkybutsmart said…
When you get back, (if you ever do) watch "The Illusionist". Great movie, filmed in Prague. (Great score also-- I have watched it 3 or 4 times.) You will love it.
Just Jessy said…
Another beautiful installation of your journey thus far Paul. Thank you for sharing your experience in Prague. I can sense the impact it had on you, and I am glad that you added it to your itinerary. Sometimes, it is the very things we do not overly plan that can be the most wonderful. I am glad you are feeling better and are on your way to another stop on this tremendous adventure. And I again am honored to have a brief glimpse into your trip. Have a wonderful week, Paul!
Billy Smith said…
Thanks for sharing. I'm enjoying being able to live vicariously through you. Smithy
Unknown said…
Really. Your writing is an example to how I would love to write. So funny, witty. Love the word - puns.
Keep it up, it's a pleasure to read. Takes me where you are.

Miss you.
I keep following.

Love, M>
ionrdionWow Paul I wonder how many friends are tagging along on your ticket?

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